This section is written on the assumption that you acquired the recommended components from SOURCING FILLER AND PAINTS. If you bought alternatives, please refer to the manufacturer's documentation for preparation instructions.
It is now time to begin preparing your mask. Bear in mind, this will be the longest, most labour intensive process of the entire build. Doing a thorough job here will result in the best finish and any small defects at this stage may be amplified in the final product.
As such, take your time and do not be afraid to try and get an even better result before moving on! It may be easier to start with your accessories (ears, horns, etc.) as they are smaller projects. All of the below steps are relevant to the accessories as well as the main shell parts.
Firstly, you need to add the features you plan to add, such as eyelashes, and eyebrows as a minimum. Start by applying masking tape to the areas of the mask you wish to make additions to, then using a pen, draw the features onto the tape. By removing the tape and transferring the outline to card-stock, you can create a template to create two precise mirrored features.
We recommend you create templates for both the eyelashes and eyebrows.
To prepare epoxy putty for sculpting with, take equal sizes of the part A and B putties and mix them thoroughly until they achieve a uniform colour and texture.
We recommend kneading the putty together using the palm of your hand similar to how kneading bread is done. Please be aware of the working time of your specific putty.
To create each feature directly, you need to roll flat the putty to an even thickness, lay the card template onto the putty, and cut around it to make two if each piece. Apply each features to the shell with firm pressure to promote adhesion and sculpt the features to your desired shape.
Filling consists of two types, large voids that need filling, such as holes or cracks, and smaller defects like scratches, 3D print layer lines, or fine cracks.
If there are any holes in the shell that you do not wish to use, such as the eyelid slits, or accessory holes you know you will never use, you can fill them with epoxy putty. These are the large voids you may want to consider filling.
While we have worked with manufacturers to provide the smoothest surface for your shell while keeping the price for you reasonable, you will need to use knifing putty to fill in all of the small layer lines and inconsistencies in the shell halves.
We recommend coating the entire outer shell with a layer of knifing putty so that you are only sanding putty in the following step and do not risk damaging the plastic structure.
This is the process of smoothing out the surface of your shell so that you end up with a nice even skin tone at the end.
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IMPORTANT NOTE: Sanding of any kind create a lot of airborne particles. Please ensure you are wearing the adequate PPE and have set up a suitable workspace as it will get covered in sanding dust when those airborne particles settle. Wet sanding uses water so make sure you have a suitable work surface that can withstand water. |
Start by using a utility knife to remove large amounts of fillers added in the previous step. This includes carving larger chunks but also scraping the surface with the edge of the blade, which can be used to flatten the surface.
Switch to the Medium sanding pad and soak it in water for a minute until it has soaked up some water. While the pad is wet, use it in gentle circular motions to remove large scratches and small defects in the surface (such as small bumps).
Switch to the Fine sanding pad and soak it in water for a minute until it has soaked up some water. While the pad is wet, use it it in gentle circular motions to remove the scratches left by the medium sanding paper. At this point it is important to pay attention to the surface finish. If you can see or feel any rough parts, they will show up in the final paint.
You may need to repeat the filling and sanding steps in spots where you have sanded back to the raw shell plastic.
When you are happy with the surface finish, wipe down the part with a clean microfiber cloth or damp towelette to remove any dust.
For this step, we recommend using a High-Build primer. Start by shaking the can as per the instructions and do a quick test spray on something other than your shell. We recommend starting with your accessories, such as the included ears.
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IMPORTANT NOTE: Spray paints of any kind create a lot of airborne particles. Please ensure you are wearing the adequate PPE and have set up a suitable workspace as it will get covered in over-spray when those airborne particles settle. We recommend using the box your kit was delivered in as a temporary spray booth by laying it on the long side and spray your parts inside of it, this helps prevent over-spray. |
To spray, start spraying away from your part, and bring the primer across your part maintaining an even distance from the part surface. THIS video shows the correct technique for following a contoured surface.
After applying three (3) coats, waiting 10 to 15 minutes between each coat, allow the primer to fully dry overnight or according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Carefully identify any areas that have poor surface finish, such as layer lines being visible, or paint runs, or other unwanted textures. You can gently wet sand those areas specifically until they become smooth. If the problem area gets sanded back to raw plastic, apply more knifing putty or high-build primer and repeat until smooth.
Finally, apply an even coat of high-build primer over the entire surface so no filler or raw plastic is visible across the whole part.
Repeat all the above preparation steps for your accessories using the same techniques.
It is incredibly important to get the best finish possible at this stage as it will show through to the final result. If you can feel the texture, or see shadows and scratches, then the mask is not as smooth as it should be. Do not move onto painting until you are happy with the finish.